
HERE WAS A GUEST BOOK in the lookout that had been there for twenty years
with only two signatures in it—and they were former lookouts themselves
who knew how isolated the place could get and so came up to visit," says
Jack Francis, who manned the lookout in '52. "Desolation was aptly named.
No one came..."
KEROUAC, LIKE JACK FRANCIS before him, had no visitors in his entire
sixty-three days on Desolation, a phenomenal stretch for a
gregarious urban man
like Kerouac, who despite his frequent and outspoken longings
for solitude, had an even stronger need for the regular communion
of his friends. In the mornings he rinsed his face in a battered
tin basin of pure mountain snow water, and in the evening,
he stoked the firebox of his stove and sat before it smoking-just
as he had dreamed it when he was seventeen. Indeed, fifteen
years before, back in New England, he had imagined himself
in exactly such a scene, but when he looked up and saw his
thirty-four-year-old face reflected in the black lookout windows
that now surrounded him, it sometimes seemed impossible that
he had ever wanted this. THE HARD YELLOW LIGHT of his kerosene lantern cut across his features, shading
every groove and furrow of his sunburned face, illuminating
a man weighed down with sadness.
In the stock taking of his final weeks of solitude, it hit
him that he was fast approaching middle age. He was well aware
that at thirty-four many of his artistic exemplars had begun
to see the waning of their powers. At thirty-four, Melville's
greatest works were behind him. At thirty four, Thomas Wolfe
had finished his Eugene Gant trilogy and was dying. And Charlie
Parker-Jack still couldn't believe it-was already dead, only
halfway into his thirty-fifth year. Even the stoic Thoreau
had had to admit, a few days after his own thirty-fourth birthday,
“I think that no experience which I have today comes up to,
or is comparable with, the experiences of my youth...I can
remember that I was all alive, and inhabited my body with
inexpressible satisfaction.” OTHER NIGHTS Kerouac was not quite so haunted. He could see a completely
different image: a clear-eyed, suntanned, open-hearted man,
still in his prime. There was truth in both reflections. With
his system clean of both alcohol and amphetamines for nearly
two months, Jack at the end of August 1956 was leaner and
healthier than at any time since his football days at Columbia.
ON THOSE NIGHTS he assured himself that thirty-four was not that old,
and buoyed his creative hopes with images of his hero Dostoyevsky,
whose greatest works were of his maturity. At thirty-four,
Dostoyevsky was only just out of Siberian leg-irons. If Dostoyevsky
could write five masterpieces in the decade of his forties,
Jack told himself, then such a creative outburst was not impossible
to him. Shakespeare, another of Jack's literary gods, had
also exploded with midlife genius-Hamlet, Othello, Lear, Macbeth,
Anthony and Cleopatra, Coriolanus, all written between
the ages of thirty-six and forty-three. At thirty-four, Whitman
had hardly begun to sound his voice. Joyce was in Zurich,
finishing A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, with Ulysses
and Finnegans Wake still to come.
"WHERE THE TOP OF THIS ARCH of life may be, it is difficult to know,”
wrote Dante. “I believe that in the perfectly natural man, it is at the
thirty-fifth year.” Hopefully, the dark woods of Desolation would lead
Jack to Paradise, as they had for Dante. Kerouac vowed to himself that
Desolation would mark the beginning of even greater work than what he
had so far produced. It would be his “Desolation Testament,” he swore.
In fact, Desolation would be Jack's last great adventure; at thirty-four,
his life was almost three-quarters gone.
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From Poets on the Peaks: Gary Snyder,
Philip Whalen & Jack Kerouac in the North Cascades, published by Counterpoint
Press, 2002. Text & Photos © John Suiter All Rights Reserved. No part of the text or
of any photograph may be used without the express written permission of
John Suiter.
1956 photo of Jack Kerouac © Walter Lehrman, used by permission.
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